Chamonix Road Trip: We Asked for Snow. We Got Snow.
Ben Bolton
- 4 minutes read - 758 words
There’s a version of a Chamonix trip where everything goes to plan — lifts open, visibility good, big descents ticked off the list. This wasn’t that trip. What we got instead was two weeks of relentless snowfall, closures, avalanche warnings, and the kind of conditions that force you to get creative. I wouldn’t change a thing.
The Drive Down
We left West Yorkshire on the 6th of February — a convoy of kit bags, boot bags, and enough snacks for the crossing. The drive takes you through Geneva and up into the valley, and there’s a moment as you leave the motorway and the mountains start closing in around you where everything feels worth it.
We arrived to find the valley already deep in snow, with more on the way.
The Snow Situation
To put it bluntly: there was an extraordinary amount of snow. The kind of snowfall that triggers avalanche closures, shuts motorways, and takes out lift infrastructure. Over the fortnight, most of the big lift systems were closed for significant stretches — Grands Montets, the Aiguille du Midi, the Brévent-Flégère link. The high mountains were largely off-limits by cable car.
For piste skiers it would have been a frustrating trip. For us, it meant pivoting hard into touring mode.
The valley in full winter mode — trees loaded with snow, clouds sitting low.
Before the Snow Hit: The Col de Beugeant Traverse
Before the real chaos arrived, we managed to get one proper day out in good conditions — the Col de Beugeant Traverse. Blue skies, great visibility, and the kind of high alpine terrain that reminds you why Chamonix is in a league of its own.
On the Col de Beugeant Traverse — one of the best days of the trip.
Getting Out on Touring Skis
Once the heavy snow settled in, we dipped into touring on and off — less about epic objectives, more about dodging lift queues and getting some turns on mellow terrain while things were loading up. Nothing too committing given the avalanche conditions, but good fun all the same.
The forest zones around the valley were a great shout — sheltered, plenty of snow, and far quieter than the lifts on the days they were running.
Working through the larch forests above the valley.
Out on a low-consequence skin — keeping it sensible while the snowpack settled.
A Day in Courmayeur
When a proper weather window finally arrived, we made the most of it and headed through the Mont Blanc tunnel into Italy for a day at Courmayeur. After days of grey skies and restricted terrain on the French side, it felt like a completely different trip — blue skies, open lifts, and the Italian side of the massif laid out in front of us.
Courmayeur is a brilliant contrast to Chamonix. Less frantic, a bit more relaxed, great snow on the day we were there. We skied hard, ate well, and made it back through the tunnel in the evening feeling like the trip had delivered everything it had promised.
High on the plateau — skis skinned up, proper alpine backdrop.
The faces of people who’ve been skinning for two hours and are very happy about it.
The Crew
It helps enormously to be with the right people when a trip throws complications at you. Everyone on this trip was adaptable — nobody sulked about closed lifts, everyone was up for making the most of whatever was available. That attitude makes or breaks a big trip.
The crew — all smiles despite the chaos.
Thoughts on Chamonix in Extreme Conditions
Chamonix is uniquely well-suited to this kind of trip. Unlike a purpose-built resort, the valley has genuine depth — a mountain community, proper guides, a culture built around alpinism and ski mountaineering, not just piste skiing. When the lifts close, there’s still a world of terrain out there for people willing to work for it.
A few things that made the trip work:
- Flexibility — being willing to scrap the plan and tour instead of queuing at closed lifts
- Picking your moments — keeping touring low-consequence while the snowpack was unsettled
- Seizing the windows — when the weather broke, we moved fast (Courmayeur being the prime example)
The two weeks flew by. We drove home on the 20th, tired and already talking about next year.
If you’re planning a Chamonix trip in a big snow year — embrace the chaos. Go with touring skis if you have them. Check the bulletins. And don’t expect the lifts to be open.